(TORONTO, ON) – When I think of Mendoza Malbec, or other Mendoza wines from Argentina, I think of MMD; Malbec Mendoza Decadence. Rich and plush wines.
The lesser quality ones just ooze fruit and sloppy winemaking, whereas the higher quality, and usually higher altitude, Malbecs counter the sloppy fruitiness with a firm seam of acidity. That’s quite a universal truth with all wines.
Higher altitude, better acidity. And all equating to a more disciplined and elegant wine.
Let’s give this theory a try with a Bodega Norton 2012 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon.
Light purplish in colour, a real classic Cabernet Sauvignon with big blueberry pie aromas. There is some black cherry and chocolate aroma. This is solid Sherman tank on the nose.
Solid winter tire palate of spice, sharp black cherry, raspberry jam, and dark chocolate encased within an Alcatraz acidity and tannins of solitary confinement.
There is really nothing lush, plush, or decadent about this wine.
It’s classic Cabernet Sauvignon that can clearly kick butt with a Californian bother, except that it’s tighter and more food friendly than many a California Cabernet Sauvignons.
Good ageability on this one. Good sipper, but with beef it’s over the top. I’d say this wine is quickly reaching its peak, but will comfortably slide into 2020; but not case worthy. This can easily challenge a Californian Cabernet Sauvignon from the same vintage.
(Bodega Norton, Reserva 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5%, Bodega Norton, Cuyo, Mendoza, LCBO #663120, $17.95, Square Media Group Rating 93/100)
Considering the price point and quality vs a California Cabernet Sauvignon, poor California is wiped off of the map.
Malbec may rule Mendoza, but let us not forget Bonarda, which is a signature Argentinean grape. This Cristobal 1492 version is light purple in colour. It’s smokey and full of black fruit on the nose. Lots of blackberry, red plum, and sweet black cherries.
It’s just about begging you to grill a slab of beef and chug-a-lug.
On the palate, some rather thin cherry jam. The big aromas have whimped out. We can take this as evidence of discipline or an imbalance of taste and aroma. But, I’ll give the producer the benefit of the doubt here as there are enough acids and tannins. If I may say, some shy fruit which may emerge with a bit more age in the bottle.
Very likeable if you can get used to it’s rather quirky finish.
Mid weight and tremendous with beef on the grill and even rosemary/thyme/oregano seasoned lamb.
(Cristobal 1492 Bonarda 2014, Mendoza, Argentina, Don Cristobal, Mendoza, 14%, $13.95, LCBO # 261941, Square Media Group Rating 88/100)
You might want to try and keep a few bottles around for a few years and see if the shy palate expands. But for the price, a steal.
When do the Malbecs from Mendoza ever stop flowing in? This one is called LaMadrid.
Santa Rosa plum in colour. Big blackberry, black cherry, cassis, coffee, and tar shout out of the glass. On the palate, as smooth as a baby’s bottom. Same flavours on the palate as on the nose.
I suppose that’s another way of saying a perfectly balanced wine, although many writers refer to that as a perfect counterbalance between acids and tannins creating a real smoothie.
Lush, plush, and decadent, however not sloppy and lazy and wandering. Somehow chill this guy out and serve with charred octopus and an Argentinean tomato and onion salad.
No sense in keeping this around for too much longer.
(La Madrid 2012 Single Vineyard Reserva, Bodega LaMadrid, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 750 mL, 14.5%, LCBO # 234492, $ 17, Square Media Group Rating 92/100).
Let’s go with one last Malbec, a Fabre Montmayou.
Inky purple in colour. Again super concentrated blackberry, cassis, and ripe black cherry, dark chocolate, and beets. It is very rich on the palate, but a good degree of acidity keeps it from being lush and plush. It has some noticeable tannins.
On the palate, really the same as on the nose. Full bodied with a medium finish.
If you are a fan of rich reds, this is a beauty. Good for a slab of beef or sausage on the grill. Enough tannins and acids to hang on and improve until 2020.
(Fabre Montmayou Gran Reserva Malbec 2012, Bodegas Fabre, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, 750 mL, 15%, $24.95, LCBO #279802, Square Media Group Rating 95/100)
Set the Bar 