The last Zealie Pinot Noir I tried was bordering on undrinkable as it “stunk” of oak. New Zealand, in my past experiences, does much better than a stinky Pinot Noir!
So hopefully it is redemption time with a Paper Road 2021 Pinot Noir from Borthwick Vineyards family owned and established in 1996. Ancient stony, alluvial soils, a cool climate, sustainable practices and minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery.
Aroma: This wine is not suffering from oakasis majoris! 85% French oak aged for 8 months with a mixture of selected cooperages of which 15% were new but still too much wood barely within an acceptable range that is if you like an oaked Pinot Noir. Black cherry, black raspberry with a touch of milk chocolate.
Palate: Not one of those delicate and dainty Pinot Noirs leaning towards full bodied and almost aggressive perhaps to the stony soil composition. The acids are cutting and distracting on the verge of annoying. Black cherry, cranberry and pomegranate with a gruff peppery finish.
Personality: I am very rough and zippy around the edges.
Food Match: A Zealie meat pie.
Cellarbility: Don’t bother. Drink now.
Price: $26 CDN (Ontario).
RKS 2024 Wine Rating: 72/100. Decanter 2022 World Wine Awards 95.
(Paper Road 2021 Pinot Noir, Wairarapa, New Zealand, Borthwick Vineyard, Gladstone, New Zealand, 750 mL, 13.5%).
Comments from the Peanut Gallery: Too much oak aggravated by too much acidity. “Drinkable” is not something you should have to settle for. Three strikes and you are out New Zealand.
Set the Bar 